What I Bring
My inspection kit fits in a small bucket.
The Essentials
A good flashlight. My basement has dark corners that don't get any natural light. A 4-foot level for checking walls and floors. A tape measure for crack widths and other measurements. My phone for photos and notes.
That's really it. Simple tools for a simple inspection.
Optional Extras
A crack gauge gives more precise width measurements than a tape measure. Cost me $15. A moisture meter can detect dampness you can't see or feel. I don't use one regularly but it's helpful if I suspect water issues.
A straight 2x4 is useful for checking longer walls for bow. I keep one in the basement specifically for this.
Inside the Basement
This is where I spend most of my inspection time.
Walking Each Wall
I walk along each wall with my flashlight, scanning for cracks. I know where all my existing cracks are. I'm looking for new ones or changes to old ones.
I pay extra attention to corners, around windows, and where pipes come through. These are stress concentration points where cracks often form.
Checking for Wall Movement
I hold my level vertically against each wall at several spots. Looking for any bow or lean. I also sight down the wall from each corner. Any curve would be visible this way.
For my longest wall, I use the 2x4 as a straightedge. More accurate than the 4-foot level for detecting subtle bowing.
Looking for Water Signs
Water staining. White crusty efflorescence. Any dampness. These indicate moisture getting through somewhere. I check the floor-wall joint especially. That's where water often enters.
I found one crack with efflorescence the first year. Sealed it. Problem solved. But I keep checking.
The Floor
I look at the basement floor for cracks, heaving, or changes since last inspection. My floor has several cracks that have been stable for years. I'd notice a new one.
I also check floor slope with my level. Put it down in several spots. Make sure nothing has changed.
Measuring My Tracked Cracks
I have pencil marks at the ends of my main cracks, dated. I check if the cracks have extended past my marks. They never have, but I check.
I measure the width of my widest crack at the same spot each time. Same result every year. This is the most reassuring part of the inspection.
Outside the House
The exterior inspection takes maybe 10 minutes.
Visible Foundation
I walk the perimeter looking at any exposed foundation above grade. Checking for cracks, spalling, or deterioration. The exposed concrete shows freeze-thaw damage over time. I note anything that looks worse than last time.
Grading and Drainage
I look at how the ground slopes. Should be away from the house everywhere. I check for any areas where water might pool against the foundation.
I learned about drainage the hard way with water in my basement. Now I'm vigilant about grading.
Downspouts
Are they all still connected? Do they discharge far enough from the house? I extended mine with cheap plastic extensions after my flooding episode. I make sure they're still in place and pointed the right direction.
Trees and Vegetation
I have two trees within 30 feet of the house. After watching Gary's neighbor deal with tree root damage, I pay attention to mine. Looking for any new cracks that might correlate with root activity.
I also keep plants from growing directly against the foundation. They trap moisture.
Exterior Cracks
I check the brick veneer for any cracks, especially stair-step patterns that might indicate foundation movement. So far, nothing concerning. The cracks I see align with interior cracks and have been stable.
Upstairs Check
Foundation problems often show up in the living areas.
Door Test
I open and close a few key doors. Do they still work the same way? Any new sticking? Gary's foundation problem showed up in his doors first. If my doors start acting differently, I'll be in the basement with my flashlight.
Drywall Scan
Quick look at the walls near doors and windows. Looking for new cracks, especially diagonal ones from corners. These indicate frame stress from foundation movement.
Floor Check
I keep a golf ball handy. Roll it on the floor in a few rooms. Same behavior every time, rolls toward the same corner. That slight slope has been there since I bought the house. It's not getting worse.
If the ball started rolling a new direction, I'd pay attention.
Documentation
Records make the inspection useful over time.
Photos
I photograph each tracked crack with a ruler for scale. Same angle, same lighting each time. I keep them in dated folders. Looking back through five years of identical photos is boring in the best possible way.
Notes
I keep a simple log. Date, any observations, any measurements. Most entries are "no changes." That's what I want to see.
The Crack Map
First year, I sketched a floor plan showing crack locations. I refer to it each inspection. Makes sure I don't miss anything and helps me remember where everything is.
When to Call Someone
Most inspections end with "everything's fine." But I know what would prompt a call.
Things That Would Worry Me
Any horizontal crack. Any wall bow I can detect. A crack that's grown past my marks. New cracks that weren't there before. Multiple symptoms appearing at once.
Any of these, and I'm calling a structural engineer. Not a contractor first. An engineer for an objective opinion.
Things I Just Monitor
My existing stable cracks. Minor seasonal changes. Small stuff that's been the same for years. These are information, not emergencies.
The $350 Threshold
If I'm losing sleep over something, $350 for an engineer's opinion is worth it. I did this once and learned my cracks were cosmetic. Best money I spent that year.
Better to pay for reassurance than to worry for free.